Photos by Adrian Daniel Schramm

Spring is here. The weather warms after another long winter. There is a sense of liberation in the air, breaking free from the chains of cold weather to revel in the warm air and sunlight and the bountiful harvest of fresh food from the land.

In this, we are lucky to live in Minnesota.

Well, you might not think so if you don’t care about food. But if you don’t care about food then you shouldn’t be here anyway. Minnesota has its pros and cons, its ups and downs, but what this state has to offer your dinner table is unparalleled.

With Brandon Randolph, culinary expert and resident chef, a day of foraging and cooking.

A sunny spring Thursday after a long Minnesota winter is the perfect day to head out in search of ramps. That beautiful, black soil (black = rich and fertile) where the ramps grow is waiting for us. And, luckily, due to an abundance of snowfall this year, the soil is rich and wet and keeps our bounty tender and supple.

Last year, due to the lack of snowfall, there was a bit of a drought in Minnesota. The soil was dry; the ramps were a little brittle, when normally they would be fresh. It felt as though they were already nearing the end of their lives.

This year we’ve experienced the opposite. And, like a great Norse warrior we want to send these ramps off into the afterlife with all of the dignity that they had in life. What better send off a pan over flames, like a funeral pyre, in a sweet and sour sauce? A fitting tribute. With a free-range, grass-fed, sustainable veal roast? A mushroom crust around the meat, using forest mushrooms also found while foraging? Even better. Then we have root vegetables that have been in the cellar since winter. Coupled with the epitome of spring, these beautiful ramps, the winter harvest both contrasts and complements; in color, in smell, in taste –

Minnesota’s temperamental weather put on a plate.

Ramps in sweet and sour sauce

The ramps are the real star of this spring meal. As ramps have an Asian quality/note/flavor to them, they are a perfect match for sweet and sour. The sauce is equal parts raw sugar and organic vinegar, boiled down until nice and sticky with the ramps in it and let the ramp’s flavor take care of the rest. Ramps have a nice little funkiness to them – fresh from the earth. Simply cook them whole, and they look so sexy in the pan. If you’re looking to preserve them for later, pickling is a great option as well.

“This is something to get excited about every spring.” Brandon says. “Something that a lot of people don’t know about.” While ramps aren’t specific just to the Midwest, they don’t grow in too many places around the United States. Thanks to the fertile soil found here, Minnesota has plenty.”

Pro tip: Don’t leave anything behind. Make a pistou out the leaves, treating them like you would basil. You can enjoy the entire plant without any wasting any part of it.

Veal in forest mushroom crust

There is no better way to have veal than the local, sustainable, grass-fed veal variety. And the benefits of having this local meat extend far beyond its oh-so-tender qualities: The nutritional value is amped by being grass-fed; grass-fed beef is lower in total calories, lower in fats and saturated fats, and higher in those good unsaturated fats such as omega-3 fatty acids (about 5x more than corn-fed). It’s also higher in iron, protein and potassium. Grass-fed beef is eating a natural diet, and so their bodies are healthier and are producing, then, a healthier protein. Cows don’t normally eat corn, as in nature they are grazers eating grasses, weeds, herbs, and alfalfa, not grains that have been stored like “silage,” or corn which is mostly composed of starch. They simply aren’t going to be as healthy on a corn diet.

Grass-fed also means no E. coli. The enzymes in grass kill the E. coli that grows in corn. If a cow eats grass even for a little while, it will kill the E. coli.

Winter harvest with wild rice

On the side we have a few leftover from the winter harvest: Mushrooms, heirloom carrots, sweet onion, and wild rice cooked in a Sumac broth. Sumac can also be gathered locally, found at the edges of the forests all around the state, its red color bright against the darkness of the trees.

Forest Mushrooms are great no matter what the season, and something of which Minnesota has abundance. As Brandon will tell you, “Mushrooms are nature’s treasure.”

This is what is special about Minnesota: The miles of open fields; the lush forests, azure lakes, and overgrown wetlands. Yes, the crazy weather. All of this comes together to make Minnesota the food state that it is.

Photos by Adrian Daniel Schramm

An intimate display.

You can, and should, get out there and do it yourself. Don’t rely on untrustworthy food sources. You can get everything you need right here. Go out and get lost in the land. Find some love for yourself. You just might get lucky.